When I see rocky coastlines like the one below I am reminded that this island is volcanic, and it’s easy to imagine how it was when these steely-grey rocks were molten lava, hissing its way into the Atlantic.
I post pictures on here or on Facebook and people often comment on the beauty of this island on which I am living. There are other people, even people who have lived here for some time, who are surprised by how unspoiled an area is, or that the island boasts two World Heritage Sites.
The busy resorts have very little appeal for me, but the other side of the coin is that I can’t go for too long without internet, and a really slow speed internet would drive me crazy, so I am lucky that El Médano is a nice compromise. Internet is good here, in the main area, and although it’s a resort it’s funky and lively in a genuine way, not a manufactured way.
Now, if I had my druthers, I’d live somewhere like this village, which is Tajao, just a few miles up the coast from El Médano, so still on the windy side, but, as yet, pretty much just a fishing village still.
Cages piled up on the harborside are used for catching pulpo.
It’s a tiny place, and quiet, even on a weekend in the holiday season, although there were queues at the restaurants we looked at, and half of them were closed for the fiestas. The fish served here is fresh, and they still serve more traditional Canarian dishes, like escaldón. It certainly isn’t a place entirely unknown to tourists or ex-pats, but I think it’s safe to say that those who go there go for the tranquility and the fresh food.
There really isn’t an awful lot more than you see in these photos. You drive through a couple of streets, turn right or left to park, either by the small, neat beach, or by the harbor. Were it a place you drove through, you’d blink and miss it, and unless an awful lot has changed in the last year (which to the best of my information it hasn’t) internet access is dodgy. It’s understandable. It isn’t exactly a high priority zone.
It’s isn’t really even that pretty. Architecture in the south of the island was never fancy. The picturesque, colonial buildings and the distinictive carved balconies were in the prosperous north of Tenerife, whilst in the south dwellings were built for practical use, mostly the dwellings of fishermen and artisans. Even now the properties which line the shoreline are little more than square boxes, although painting them bright colors and filling balconies and steps with geraniums lend an ambience, which touches on Mediterranean.
Still – I wish they had better internet here.