Islandmomma

Exploring the Stories of the Islands and the Freedoms of Third Age

Fuerteventura: 9 Days In

11 Comments

First impression? Sunshine! If journeys are voyages of self-discovery as well as discovery of other cultures, then the thing I have learned about myself so far in the last six months is that I am a sunshine addict. Truly, I wasn’t aware of it. I guess that living with the stuff for 20+ years made me take it for granted – until it disappeared! Somewhere mid December it started to rain in La Gomera; Christmas in northern England was bleak and full of dire weather warnings; returning to La Gomera for two months I think I remember four days of sunshine (But I’ll be charitable and say 5 or 6); back to England at the beginning of March to one sunny day and more bleakness – so it was delightful to wake up on my first morning on Fuerteventura to sun streaming through my window. Though some clouds have passed over, the sun continues to smile. The clouds rarely take up residence because this island lies so low in the ocean. Ask a local when it last rained and they squint into the distance and begin their answer with “Hmmm. Let me think…” Clearly whenever it was, it wasn’t too memorable!

Las Playitas, my current home

Las Playitas, my current home

Second impression? Beaches! The brilliant, white beaches of Jandia and of Correlejo, golden sands elsewhere and some black sand beaches. Something else I didn’t appreciate myself is how much of a beach bum I am. When my kids were small we went to the beach almost every weekend; when they grew older and became surfers, they still needed transport, and so I would drop them off and retire to an approved (by them) distance to enjoy the beach in peace (though sometimes there were other moms similarly banished to giggle with). I distinctly remember years ago thinking, “I love beaches. I love ‘em all. I love the quiet ones, the surfy ones, the sporty ones, even the posh ones at times.” Still do…..and it’s been a while since I really took advantage of living near them. I couldn’t fail to notice that in La Gomera, surrounded by the intense greenery and lush mountainsides, so many of my pictures were, still, of beaches.

 

The beach at Risco el Paso in Jandia

The beach at Risco el Paso in Jandia

The beach at Cortillo. My favorite so far!

The beach at Cortillo. My favorite so far!

Third Impression?  Goats! Fuerteventura is famous for its cheeses, and I’ve eaten them for years. Now, here I am, able to buy them whenever I fancy. But I hadn’t thought overmuch about the goats. Walking in Tenerife goats often wander across your path, and in La Gomera you are rarely out of earshot of bells and bleats, but here there are just so many. They are everywhere, and they seem to eat,well, even dirt!

Forth Impression?  Hmmm the development of the last 20 years has clearly not been controlled. Correlejo was delightful back then, and Morro Jable, although there were the beginnings of the concrete, had some atmosphere. These are the two main resorts, at either end of the island, and neither now has any atmosphere whatsoever, both have been utterly consumed by concrete. Sadly,  both have the most amazing beaches.

Fifth Impression?  Sports. It seems that everyone indulges here! Beside many main roads there are running/cycle tracks … and folk using them. You can’t drive more than a couple of miles without encountering a group of cyclists. Tomorrow there is a triathlon here in the village, as we sat having a late lunch this afternoon the buoys were being put in place. There is surfing, body boarding, windsurfing and kite boarding. I’ve seen skate boarders, walkers (of course), and I won’t mention golfers because you know how I loathe that sport!

Church Square in Tetir

Church Square in Tetir

The lighthouse at Entallada

The lighthouse at Entallada

Windmill at Llanos la Concepción

Windmill at Llanos la Concepción

Other observations? Sleepy inland villages. Taking bumpy old roads to find dramatic cliffs or long, long almost unused beaches. Fresh fish. Friendly people (except in Correlejo where they seem to be at the “bored-with-tourists stage that resorts often go through, for their sakes I hope they get over it.) Great main roads, which are level and curve gently – actually got into 5th gear! One must, of course, mention the wind, which sculpted these intriguing landscapes, and brings the sporty here, but after living in El Médano for so long it probably notice it less than others do. Windmills.Lighthouses. Oh, and did I mention the beaches?

La Pared at sunset

La Pared at sunset

Oh, yes, I think you can say I like Fuertventura!  …… and Trixy seems happy too!

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Author: IslandMomma

Loving island life and exploring the freedoms Third Age brings: Challenging myself every day: writing, traveling, snapping pix, running & teaching ESL

11 thoughts on “Fuerteventura: 9 Days In

  1. So glad you are enjoying your adventures and pleased to see Trixy is too, wondered how she would cope.

    • Good morning Red Queen! Thank you. LOL I was afraid, at one stage, just before leaving La Gomera, that I should maybe have left it for last because suely it was the most beautiful of the islands, and surely these were the friendliest folk! Of course, I should have known better. Everywhere has its own beauty. The contrast here is good, and did me good! I was a little worried about Trix too, but she seems to be happy as long as she knows I’m around, so I try to have here with me as much as possible. She stayed with friends when I went to England, and I was afraid she wouldn’t want to get in the car when she saw it all packed up again, but she jumped in happily. So no worries! Thanks for reading and taking the time to comment

  2. I was in Fuerteventura a couple of years ago. Loved it. We stayed down in Jandia and had a great relaxing time in an all exclusive place. People were great, food was fab, and the beaches and views out to sea were just what we needed. Great post, enjoy your adventure!

    • Jandia is stunning, isn’t it. I’m happy to see, in my eyes at least, that the development there is somehow more acceptable than it is up in the Correlejo area, where they seem to have destroyed a lovely little village. I got a bad vibe there, whereas Costa Calma/Morro Jable I just thought, well, there has to be tourism for the island to survive, and they have kept it more or less low rise etc etc Even with the amount of tourism and winter is still high season here, and even on a Sunday, when locals go to the beach, there was loads of room on all the beaches I looked at last weekend. What I am looking forward to know is actually spending some time on them! Many thanks for reading, Barry and for commenting!

      • Yeah I heard that too about Correlejo area, such a shame. A friend of mine lived there a few years back and said it’s been ruined by tourism…like many places these days. Seville seems to be getting more and more clogged up with tourists these days, walking about the centre midweek is always a chore with massive groups hogging the back alleys and squares. Love your blog, keep up the writing!

  3. She jumped in happily??? She almost dragged the two of us into the car in her haste not to be left behind!! Good old Trix, still open for new experiences, luckily ;-) And glad to see that beach fisherman photo again. I love it.

  4. The variations between the Canaries never failed to fascinate me while I lived there. It’s good to know you are enjoying Fuerteventura – so different to your last ‘home’ for a few weeks on Green and mountainous La Gomera. By the way – your image ‘La Pared at sunset’ is quite magical.

    • Agreed. That’s partly why I began this journey, to take in all the contrasts. I’d visited most of the islands, but didn’t know any in depth other than Tenerife. It’s proving to be much more interesting than i imagined!

      Thank you. That was the one shot after a shivery wait! There was calima so I knew it wasn’t going to be a great sunset, but when I saw the guy fishing I thought maybe it was worth hanging around!

  5. These beaches look absolutely stunning and you sound happy as a clam.

  6. I haven’t done the beaches justice yet, Gaelyn! I’ve spent this time finding my way around. Now to make a timetable to get back to places at the right time for snaps etc! I am, actually, quite surprised by how much I’m enjoying Fuerteventura….. because it is so desertified it’s easy to dismiss as being uninteresting, but that’s far from true. I suspect that the people here have had to work that much harder than on some of the other islands, where rich volcanic soil yielded crops.

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